City of 100 Spires. Prague 8/501

Possibly the most beautiful city I have been to (so far). There is something magical about the place, with its hazy sky line and castles a plenty, it is entirely to easy to pretend that you are actually on a set of some big budget Disney movie.

We arrived at 5.30am as our bus was running ahead of schedule which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Despite being perhaps the grumpiest person in the world that morning, Nick managed to persuade me to not go back to the hostel to sleep, but to take advantage of how empty the city was and explore. I am so glad that I listened to him. We had the city to ourselves for the first few hours and it was gorgeous. Crossing over the river ambling around the Charles bridge at sunrise was (in hindsight) the most stunning part of our European foray.


There are three things you seemingly cannot escape whilst in Prague:

1. Churches 
2. Kafka
3. David Cerny

The first two are fairly predictable. Prague was granted the grace to be largely architecturally unaffected by the mass demolition of World War II. The higgledipiggidly turrets, spires represent 100s of different religions, denominations and saints, all standing in their Gothic glory. Similarly, Kafka is probably the cities most (only) famous expat, which is unfortunate as the man himself didn't seem to have much of an opinion of the place. David Cerny on the other hand was a revelation and a joy to stumble across.

Think of him as a Czech Banksy and Tracey Emin all rolled into one. His sculptures can be found throughout the city and make for an interesting and unwieldy guide of the backstreets and secret beauty spots. Amongst my favourites were the two men pissing into a lake the shape of the Czech Republic that stands as the entrance to the Kafka Museum. Nick informs me that during the summer the motorised men will pee actual messages into the water, and that you can text in to have your message "written". You wouldn't find that on the Fourth Plinth.

On a (drunken?) saunter through the city late at night in search of food we found his glowing Embryo, which doubles up as a drainpipe. We actually doubled back as at first we just strode past it in a very nonchalant fashion, coming to a halt a few metres later and doing the WTF double take. 

Cerny is not the only modern art that Prague wears like a badge of pride. There is a gigantic metronome that resides above the city, keeping time, aloof from all the scurrying that goes on in the city below it. There is the famous Dancing House, the only 'modern' glass building that I can remember seeing there. Also the site of some really monumental road rage, but I hope that is not a daily occurrence.

As with Berlin, there is a certain amount of grief weighing on the city from WWII, in a way that I don't encounter when visiting London or Paris. The Jewish Quarter is a must see for the sake of remembrance and culture, but do not go expecting to be chipper once you have seen all its sights. The Pinkas Synagogue is horrific, there is no other word for it. Where the Jewish memorial in Berlin is playful and beautiful whilst maintaining its vast purpose, the memorial of every Jewish person who was either killed or relocated in the war is humbling and sorrowful. The walls are covered in this cavernous building from floor to ceiling in tiny red script listing every man, women and child that is no longer there. 

To counteract that realisation of the scale of Jewish persecution comes perhaps that best restaurant in the entire world. The Vytopna Railway Restaurant was charming and warm and FULL OF MODEL TRAINS. Just off Wenceslas Square, this place is no doubt aimed at the tourist, but I fell for it hook line and sinker. Once you are seated (by the rather cute waiter) your drinks are brought to you by train, straight to your table. You then proceed to sit and watch all the other trains zoom around the room, across the bar, along over head bridges and stopping at signal boxes as they bring drinks to the other punters. It was as if some one asked Nick what his favourite things were and then made a restaurant. I am amazed that he didn't insist on permanently relocating there. Most amazingly of all it was still ridiculously cheap costing less than £20 for a large meal and lots of alcohol.

Prague is majestic and regal. The castle is the largest in Europe. The astronomical clock in the Old Town Square is as farcical as it is endearing. The views from Vysehrad Castle are breath taking and well worth the jaunt out of the city centre to find. Happiest of all the beer made in the Monastery a short walk from the castle is excellent, and entirely allowed at 10am, because you are on holiday.